Hello everyone, this is Charles McShan of Century 21 Universal Chicago. This blog post is entitled “Welcome to the Edgewater community of the city of Chicago. This will be my first neighborhood post in quite a while. My past reports covered West Ridge, Rogers Park, Lincoln Square, and the North Park area. The Edgewater community is like flowers budding back to life after the coronavirus pandemic of the last year. So let’s go exploring and check this area out.
Look at the above photo
In my previous blog post on the West Ridge area, I was talking about the intersection of Ridge and Devon Ave. Going east on Devon when you pass Ridge ave, you come across the Metra train viaduct pictured above. That viaduct has served as a barrier for trucks whose height was over 12 feet. If you were a tractor-trailer unit and were not going into the Electric factory before the viaduct, you could not access the Rogers Park or Edgewater area. You had to approach this area from the South on Ashland Ave.
Some inexperienced U-haul rental truckers sometimes would get their trucks jammed under the trestle and it is always a scene getting the truck free. That commuter railroad was built in the early 1900s when truck heights were much lower than now. The Union Pacific Railroad, which operates commuter trains, is in the process of modernizing. Hopefully, in time, the viaduct will be raised to accommodate modern trucks that need 14.1 clearance. But once you clear that viaduct and you are on the south side of Devon, you are now officially in the Edgewater community. So let us look at the area from its historical past to the present and this blog will cover the following topics.
Article Guide
The History of Edgewater!
According to historical records, the area was in the beginning farmland where celery was grown. Lakeview Township was officially established in 1857. In 1885 a settler named John Lewis Cochran purchased vacated land which was bounded by Bryn Mawr to Foster and East to Broadway. He named this property Edgewater and the reason was obvious. This man had a future vision for this area because he took it on himself to build sidewalks, sewers, streetlights he built an electrical company to power the streetlamps and the area was one of the first to have street cleaning and tree trimming. In 1889 this independent suburb was annexed and became part of the city of Chicago.
Mr. Cochran’ss influence help to bring public transportation to the area in the Form of the Northwestern Elevated company. This railroad later became part of the CTA which was operated trains with names such as the Englewood A train, the Jackson Park B train, and the Evanston Express. The extension of that train line along with extending streetcar routes North on Clark and Broadway open the area to mass development. In the beginning, Mr. Cochran built many mansions in the Edgewater community catered to the upper class. He also installed a ban on multi-unit complexes but as renters flocked to the area that ban was overturned in the courts. Now the area was ripe for development.
West of Broadway single-family homes was being built. East of Broadway to accommodate the masses of young people and immigrants desiring to live close to the lake mansions were being torn down and replaced by tall apartment buildings that dominated Kenmore and Winthrop avenues. In the 1920s the building codes were adapted to favor this growth in high-rise apartments. In the 1930s something very interesting happens to the complete city of Chicago. There was a list put out that defined all the Chicago official community areas but that list declared that Edgewater was part of the Uptown area, not its community.
The Great Depression, World War 2, and the decades of the 50s,60s, and 70s also bought their own share of problems along with an increase of foreign immigrants. One problem was a new type of apartment building called the 4+1. I wrote about this particular type of building when I did a blog post on East Rogers Park. By the late 1970S the city of Chicago due to protests changed the building code to stop this type of construction but in the areas of Rogers Park, Lakeview and Edgewater the damage has already been done.
In the 1980s people living in this area start to protest. They no longer wanted to be identified as being part of the Uptown area. They demanded their own community and the city of Chicago agreed and they were designated the 77th community area of the city of Chicago. It was about time! Soon I will write a post about the Uptown area. Stay tuned! In the 1990s the Lesbian and Gay community along with the LGBT community also started moving into the area.
The years of 2000 thru 2009 saw a boom in new construction of condo buildings which slowed down due to the real estate bust of 2009 but as you drive thru the area you see new buildings sprouting up into the air. That is the history of the Edgewater community from then to now. Today’s Edgewater is bounded by Foster Ave. to the South, Devon ave to the North, Ravenswood Ave. to the West, and Lake Michigan to the East. Community wise Edgewater is bordered by Uptown to the South, Lincoln Square to its West, West Ridge to its Northwest, and Rogers Park to its North.
What are the Neighborhoods within the Edgewater community?
Edgewater has several neighborhoods within the community. They are Andersonville, Magnolia Glen, Edgewater Glen, and Edgewater Beach. Now, let’s take a closer look at each area.
Andersonville
When you mention Andersonville to people many think of its nightlife and they would be right. But Andersonville is also known for its plant life found at Gethsemane Garden. Located at 5739 N.Clark at the intersection of Clark and Ashland Blvd This store has its own outside miniature paradise garden with its own welcoming sign to the area as seen in the photos above. This store sells indoor/outdoor plants, flowers, trees, shrubbery as well as all the garden necessities for all four seasons of the year. I have personally bought many hanging plants. My living room window panes are filled with cactus and succulent plants. The staff is hardworking and they love it. I personally recommend this place and if you wish to learn more about this store please click the link here>>.https://gethsemanegardens.com/
Andersonville is located on the Western border of Edgewater and the entertainment district continues Southward the Uptown community. In the past, this area had the most concentrated Swedish and population culture in America. Many of their businesses have closed but their influence is still strong. Most of the Swedish businesses are located in the Andersonville area primarily close to or on Clark Street. The coronavirus pandemic and other factors have caused many of the Swedish businesses to close. The Swedish American Museum located at 5211 N.Clark street is still open but operating under pandemic restrictions You should call them in advance and see how they are arranging visits. Their phone number is 773 728-8111
The Svea and Simon’s Tavern, located at 5236 N.Clark held on to life through the lockdowns, and with the warmer weather, they can cater to more people. They serve warm wines call glogg along with other drinks along with Breakfast and other food dishes. Clark Street is the heart and soul of Andersonville. Jewel-Osco is the major grocery store chain on Clark street which anchors the area along with other smaller grocery stores. Do you love to eat the food of all ethnicities? You will love this area. Besides Swedish eateries, there are many Middle Eastern restaurants and bakeries You will find food from all cultures. There is JB’S Deli featuring Jewish bagels and nova lox, pastrami, and Reuben sandwiches. JB Deli is located at 5501 N.Clark street. Stop in for the experience
Do you love the nightlife? Southward on Clark from around Balmoral on past Foster ave into the Uptown community, you will find many bars, clubs, and hangouts for you and your friend to get their groove on as they use to say. Some nightclubs cater to every form of lifestyle. This area’s nightlife has rebounded from the past lockdown imposed because of the continuing coronavirus pandemic.
Broadway
Broadway is the next north-south main street in Edgewater. While Clark street has the nightlife, Broadway is mainly commercial with a few new high-rise condos/apartment buildings. This 4 lane street features a Whole Food grocery store a LA fitness gym, Walgreens and CVS pharmacy, cleaners, medical faculties the local library, and a whole host of restaurants. Do you say you crave a Pub Burger? I recommend Moody’s Pub located at 5910N. Broadway.
Broadway is also the connecting street where you would catch the CTA redline trains. The train stations are located on the streets of Granville, Byrn Mawr, Thorndale, Berwyn, and Foster this line is under reconstruction more on that later. Last but not least, Broadway is also a dividing borderline between the neighborhoods of Edgewater-Glen and Edgewater Beach. Sandwich between Edgewater-Glen is the smaller area known as Magnolia-Glen. Glenwood is a beautiful street and its residents love to attach their area to it. I will talk briefly about these last three areas below.
Edgewater-Glen
This residential area boundaries according to one source is Devon to the North, Broadway to the East, Hollywood/Ridge ave to the south, and Clark/Ashland to the West. Do not quote on that because certain organizations disagree. The housing includes many 2-3 flat buildings along with many gorgeous 2-3 level homes from designs of long ago The majority of these homeowners raise their families and have kept their homes in tip-top condition. The streets are tree line and the lawns are well maintained and the name of this area is taken as I said above from the street named Glenwood.
Magnolia Glen
Not too many people refer to this name but it is out there on the books. Its boundaries are everything on the North East side of Ridge ave. which includes Senn High school up to Clark, North on Clark to Elmdale. East on Broadway and south on Broadway to Byrn Mawyr and Ridge. This area has a lot of apartment buildings, 2-3 flats along with single-family homes as well as the commercial business on Broadway as I mention above.
Sheridan Road and Edgewater Beach
If you are a driver living anywhere in the Eastern part of the State of Illinois it would be hard press to say that you never heard or never drove on Sheridan Road. This road was named after Philip Sherdian a General in the civil war starts in Racine Wisconsin. It ends 62 miles away to the South at Diversey Parkway in Chicago. This road stays close to the shores of Lake Michigan. Sheridan road passes thru some of the wealthiest areas of the suburbs and the city. To have a home with a Sherdian road address means a lot to some people. Sheridan road comes into the city from Evanston in the Rogers Park area and it connects with the Edgewater community at the intersection of Sheridan, Broadway, and Devon avenues.
Sheridan road is the main heavily used thoroughfare to get automobile and bus traffic to Lake Shore Drive. The area from the Lakefront to Broadway is called Edgewater Beach. In the creation of the Edgewater area its founder John Lewis Cochran built many mansions close to the shore to attract the rich. Today all but a few of those mansions are gone. They were replaced by huge high-rise developments on both sides of Sheridan road. The same rule applied to the area around Sheridan and Foster. The only things left of the past era are the Saddle Club with its private pool, tennis, and a 3 par golf course. Oh yes! The Old Edgewater Hotel remains a symbol of past glory. That concludes the report about the neighborhoods within the Edgewater community. Here are some questions people might ask about this area if they were planning on either moving into Edgewater or visiting it.
Tell me more about the area?
Who are the residents living in this area?
Well, if I mention 80% of the countries of the world many would have their former citizens living within the boundaries of the Edgewater community. Like in the West Ridge, Rogers Park, Albany Park, Lincoln Square, and Uptown you will find people wearing garments reflecting their homeland. If you are a citizen born of this country you too will be well represented. Like I wrote earlier it also has a huge Gay and LBGT presence along with Senior citizens living in nursing homes and assisted living buildings.
Does the area has excellent public transportation?
Yes, it does. The main streets that transverse the Edgewater community are Devon ave, Foster Ave., Ridge, Clark, Broadway Peterson, and of course Sheridan road. All these major streets have a CTA bus service. Remember back in the late 1800s John Lewis Cochran help create the mass transportation rail system that transported people to the area.CTA trains on this once carried the name Englewood-A, Jackson Park -B, and the Evanston express. Those names are long gone replaced by titles such as the red line and the purple line.
That concrete embankment structure that these trains operate on running from Lawrence to Howard street is over 100 years old and was slowly falling apart. Thankfully they just recently started the process to upgrade the structure, hopefully, they will increase the heights of their underpass viaducts so modern-day trucks can safely go underneath. But for the next few years please allow extra time if you use the red-line because there will be delays. The Edgewater stations at Berwyn and Foster are closed for rebuilding. The 92 Foster bus is being rerouted to the Bryn Mawr station which is also closed but has a temporary platform to handle the riders for the next 2-3 years. The Granville station and Argyle stations are still open for now.
CTA has an express bus service to Downtown Chicago via Lake Shore Drive. Those two routes are 146 and 147. They both will let you off on the magnificent mile of Michigan ave. For those riders who work on Lasalle street downtown, there is the 136 Sherdian Lasalle express. It runs only in one direction in each rush hour. In the morning it takes people to work and in the evening it brings them home. The 22# Clark street, 36# Broadway and 151# Sheridan Road have local bus service that connects to other communities before they reach their downtown terminals. The route 50 Damen bus does not go downtown but it carries a lot of people to their destinations west of downtown. The 84 Peterson, 92 Foster, and 155 Devon are excellent East-West bus routes.
In regards to Metra the commuter rail service, for now, you must go either to the Uptown train station located at Ravenswood and Lawrence or the Rogers Park at Ravenswood and Lunt ave. to board a train to downtown or the northern suburbs or Kenosha Wisconsin. But Metra rail has started initial construction on a new platform to be built in The West Ridge/Edgewater area at the intersection of Ravenswood and Peterson so please stay tuned. I will keep you updated on the progress.
A few years ago the Chicago area was once a taxi town. Thanks to ride-sharing companies of Uber and Lyft those days are gone In Edgewater as well as other communities if you are standing on the corner looking for a cab and wondering where they are at now you know. Those two companies have put the majority of cabs out of business. The vast majority of taxicabs have been abandoned or they are sitting in cab lots now called graveyards or in off-street lots never to come back out to serve the public. While the industry will not die it will never be like it was. So if are a die-hard supporter of the cab industry do not go outside looking for one. Use your phone and call a cab. The Flash cab company is hanging in there and they would be a good choice. For everyone else in the Edgewater community in today’s world when you got to get somewhere, Uber and Lyft are only a phone call away.
Is it easy for me to drive in and around Edgewater in my car?
For you, automobile drivers out there getting to and from Downtown is easy. Peterson, Ridge, Clark, Devon, Foster, and Sheridan road will all get you to Lake Shore Drive. Peterson ave is a connecting road between Lake Shore Drive and the Edens expressway. Foster, Peterson, and Devon ave will also connect you with the Kennedy Expressway to O’Hare and surrounding toll roads. Parking will be a challenge so please park legally or you might find a ticket on your car when you return.
What schools are located in the area?
The public grade schools are Hayt, Swift, Peirce, and Goudy and the main high school mention above is Nicholas Senn High School. There are several Catholic schools along with private schools so your options are great. Loyola University is located in East Rogers Park and Truman City College is located in the bordering Uptown area.
What recreation activities are in the area?
Well as the name implies Edgewater is a community that borders on the shores of Lake Michigan so yes there are two beaches here managed by the Chicago Park District. Their names are Hollywood Beach and Foster ave beach. There are also 4 lakefront parks in the area. Unlike the surrounding communities, Edgewater does not have a huge interior park but that is not a disadvantage because the whole lakefront is a park. It is on the edge of the water
What about shopping?
Shopping is endless. You have Devon Hardware which has been serving the community for decades.There are automobile repair shops, cleaners medical offices, Walgreens, and CVS pharmacies, Once again the main grocery stores are Jewels, Whole Foods, and Mariano. There are sorts of all sorts of eateries, fast foods, and you will find restaurants representing almost every ethnic culture. If you are thirsty for a cold brew, a glass of wine, a hard drink or a cup of tea or coffee you will also find an establishment here to get your drink on so please come and support the local businesses.
Conclusion!
Well, that about sums this neighborhood report on the Edgewater community. I am not going to talk about crime because crime is increasing everywhere. Nor will I speak about the politics of crime or the political figures in that field. I will leave that for someone else. When I started writing my posts I talked about the Northside neighborhoods closest to me. I will continue to do this. My Real estate office is located at 7300 N.Western Ave just North of Edgewater in the West Ridge area. If you are in any of these areas, or for that matter, the complete Chicago area and you see a home that you might be interested in purchasing or if you wish to sell your home please give me a call. I will do my best to help you. Thank you for reading this post and please have a nice day and stay safe. The pandemic is not over yet.
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